“Guest Artist” Karl Lagerfeld in dialogue with Silvia Venturini Fendi for the FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection
Acknowledging close to a lifetime of mentorship and mutual respect, the Men’s Fall/Winter 2019- 2020 Show sees Karl Lagerfeld’s integral artistic vision of FENDI as its main source of inspiration in a one-time, exclusive collaboration.
Lagerfeld’s potent aesthetic has shaped FENDI for over five decades and is applied to the brand’s menswear universe as co-designer (and subject) of the collection for the very first time.
In collaboration with Menswear Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi, Lagerfeld’s hand can be seen across the collection, from the rigorous cut of a tailored shoulder to the palette of sharp blacks and classic neutrals with a metallic sheen. Channelling a shared sense of humour, witty trompe l’oeil effects abound: zippers bifurcate sleeves, knits or coat backs, and silk organza poses lightness against leather and fur.
From Lagerfeld’s original sketch, a unique asymmetric collar wraps from a shawl collar on the right, to a notch lapel on the left, accenting sharp blazers and overcoats. Elsewhere, his world springs to life in the Karl Collage: illustrated FENDI logos, hand-written letters and vintage photographs tell the story of the designer’s process through digital printed silks, shearling intarsia and sheer mesh luggage.
Everything is dual: futurism and classicism swirl in a palette dominated by black, beige and brown, with accents of red and electric blue. Transparency and see-through give consistency to FENDI’s free-flowing lightness, playing with volumes and materials: the tuxedo is cut in organza, just like halves puffer parkas and intarsia fur pieces.
Zippers split knitwear and plongé nappa pieces in two, functionally, interchanging left with right, front with back. The metallic and shimmering luster of silver and gold is a streetwear reminiscent presence, from the anorak to the mink coat. Little chains draw pinstripes on high-collared shirts and lines on ribbed knits.