Sense Freedom with Berluti’s Autumn-Winter 2019 Collection
Artistic Director Kris Van Assche approaches his first collection with Berluti this season with an inspiration by the sense of freedom.
Presented for Autumn-Winter 2019, Berluti is taking an independent view of luxury and created their newest collection with Artistic Director Kris Van Assche’s first line. His first collection for the masion is motivated by a sense of freedom. Shown in the gilded halls of the Opéra Garnier, the new collection proposes an adventurous attitude to luxury in which the rough and noble co-exist.
Essentially, Berluti’s newest collection serves as a meta take on Berluti itself with their use of patina, the signature colouration of the masion’s classic leather shoes, illuminating it in a new light. Captivated by the old marble tables at which craftsmen hand-dye the patina of shoes in Berluti’s manifattura in Ferrara, Kris Van Assche paints his collection in the multi-hued stains of their surfaces. A wealth of reds, yellows, blues and greens saturates garments in rich colour, no two the same. The dye-splattered marble is further interpreted in print on silk shirts and nylon bags structured in exotic leather.
The impression of patina is evoked in calfskin and jacquard suiting, expanding the artisanal core of Berluti into a broader identity. The silhouette is defined, the shoulder stated but never too controlled.
The maison’s emblematic patina shoes was hand-crafted from one piece of leather – the Alessandro, after its founder, and the Andy, after Warhol – which are reimagined with sculptural caps recalling the faces of diamonds. The construction amplifies the shine synonymous with the maison, a facet accentuated in another new take on the Alessandro adorned with angular metal plates. The silhouette is transferred to a white trainer executed with the same artisanal principles.
A nod to Berluti’s heritage, shoehorn pendants and miniature shoetree key rings adorn and complete the collection. This collections comes from a unique brand that was established in Paris in 1895 and today has over 50 stores worldwide.