Redefining Manner and Culture with Christian Dior’s Newest Couture Line
Making the possibilities out of the impossibilities Dior launches its Fall-Winter 2018/2019 Haute Couture collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Raised from the inspiration that was born following the exhibition “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, this haute couture collection was placed on the spotlight to pay tribute to the sacred and timeless place that is the atelier. The ateliers are temples, guardians of thought and ideas. Unfolded by the creative vision of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the collection is at the heart of this notion of couture – with its series of images, shapes, colours and moods. Couture is an example of the avant-garde, an art form that develops through imagination. While seeking to challenge and overturn them, it reflects the cultivation of boldness to repeating codified gestures.
Under certain consideration, fabrics take the lead, produced in age-old mills that only weave a few meters at a time and which have been tasked with introducing an unusual element or a new aspect of savoir-faire, each material capable of undergoing modifications to unexpectedly accentuate its effect. At other times, the initial idea comes from the desire to redefine the ritual and manner of dressing according to the various times and occasions that punctuate a day. Haute couture offers the opportunity to wear a quality that’s unique, to adopt a perfect work to one’s own body. Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to the fundamentals and designs suits in which the Bar jacket develops batwing sleeves. The real transgression lies in referring to the rules for use while twisting their syntax.
Touched in the powdery palette of brick, green, pink and orange; the tones interact with nude colours that are enhanced with the presence of accessories – refined costume jewellery, veil and hats – in a complementary continuity of the body on which couture places the emphasis. The collection includes evening dresses, rendered dazzling by their mix of pleating and layering, contrast with simple bustiers which offer a surprising dissonance. The sculptural form of a red silk dress sewn from a single piece of fabric opens the way to a series of majestic and intimate creations, both restrained and explosive: couture, in the process, becoming a psychological place of female resistance.
Alison Bancroft, in a Lacanian sense, equates couture with the mode of expression of the avant-garde movements: reappropriation of secular practices rejected in a desire for newness and reinterpretation of traditions through contemporary values. It is through this encounter between a system of established rules and the freest creativity that, for Maria Grazia Chiuri, couture becomes akin to rebellion: a kind of ideological “guerrilla” that explodes on the frontiers of entrenched tradition, without ever overstepping them.
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